Still Life in Santiago de Chile


Last week I met with many of our wonderful friends–for lunch, coffee, a chick flick, and Thanksgiving dinner. Have I mentioned how fortunate I am to have met so many wonderful American and Argentine friends? The pictured dessert spread was the finale of our Thanksgiving night. A generous fellow invited a group of friends for a catered meal with all of the traditional plates–stuffing, sweet potatoes, bread, asparagus with almonds, buns, and cole slaw. The chef even made E. and I vegetarian cutlets with herb butter. By the time I finished my plate full of my old favorites, I could not think of eating dessert. I only had room for a small piece of chocolate cake.

Above you can see membrillo (quince) pie, apple pie, dried fruit bread, and olive oil bread. All this was topped with freshly brewed coffee and a mate passed around the table. I am thankful for all of my new and old friends and this opportunity to live abroad. And, always, I am thankful for our supportive families who I deeply miss.

Part of the reason I am compelled to see as many friends as possible this month is that we are leaving Buenos Aires to move to Santiago de Chile at the end of December. I will be Still Life in Santiago for at least a month. It is time to see a new place since telecommuting affords us some flexibility with living arrangements.

We’ll take a bus from Buenos Aires to Mendoza, and then bus from Mendoza to Santiago. I have heard that the view over the Andes will be spectacular. After a couple of days in Santiago, E. and I will fly to Punta Arenas in southern Chile–Patagonia. We’ll see penguin colonies and then trek in a several day hike called the “W” in Parque Torres del Paine. After a week down south, we’ll live and work in Santiago in a neighborhood called Bellas Artes.

Information and pictures on Torres del Paine:



Filed under Chile

15 responses to “Still Life in Santiago de Chile

  1. It sounds like you had a wonderful Thanksgiving with your friends with lots of tasty food.

    What an exciting new phase you are embarking on, Still Life! I wish you the best of luck in Chile, and I look forward to reading about your new adventures there.

    Thanks Katie! 🙂

  2. Good luck on your next adventure. Sounds fascinating! Glad you had a wonderful Thanksgiving. It’s slowly becoming my favourite holiday. It’s so simple, good people, good food and gratefulness. What’s not to love?

  3. I’m leaving in a week to do almost the exact same thing! (Minus the part where I move to Santiago at the end. I just go back to boring old America).

    I’ll probably be writing about it all on, my own blog, but I’m not sure if I’ll get a chance until I’m done with my travels.

    Anyway, I hope you and your husband have a great trip, and a great time in your new home in Chile!

    I’ll definitely stay connected with your journey. I can’t wait to hear your experiences. Suerte!

  4. I think I´m the most envious of seeing Penguin colonies. How long/much is the bus ride to Santiago? E. and I considered the same trek. Also, we def. need to go out to eat soon. Maybe at Spring or Bio? Besos.

  5. Your comments on Montevideo: “Bus drivers wave you by rather than speed up to hit you.”

    Welcome to Santiago, too! You will find the same hospitable experience there. People do NOT have the right of way in Argentina (whether Bs As, Mendoza, Salta, etc). As soon as I entered Santiago in 2002, everything changed. Cars will actually slam their brakes and wave to you to cross the street politely. It’s like a Latin American twilight zone…doo-doo-doo-doo, doo-doo-doo-doo


    No way! I think I’m going to like it there.

  6. Oh, too bad you are leaving BA, we never got around too seeing each other again after all. But the trip to the south of Chile sounds amazing (not to mention the penguins, which used to be my favorite animal), and I´m sure trying living in another place will have its share of excitement and new experiences, and a whole new breed of Spanish!

    Hi Pip–we’ll be back in February. Perhaps we can do a collaboration of Daring Bakers. Your caramel cakes look amazing. 🙂

    Is your favorite animal a golden retriever now? 😉

  7. Wow, look at all the wonderful experiences you are having! I look forward to reading more – of the views and the penguins …
    Glad you had a great thanksgiving 🙂

  8. I’m so glad you’re going to make it to Torres del Paine!! I think it’s one of the most strikingly beautiful places in the world – dramatic rock formations, turquoise lakes, everything. The W hike is amazing. Making reservations for the campsites run by private companies like Fantástico Sur is a good idea (those sites are Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos, Pehoe), but you can just show up at those run by the park service and be fine (like the sites in Valle Frances and at the base of the towers).

    The trip to see the penguins on Isla Magdalena, which leaves from Punta Arenas, is very worth it.
    I much preferred Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas, it’s more quaint, so stay there if you have the choice.

    How are you enjoying Santiago? Will you be working while you’re there?

    I’m still formulating plans for my next step… am considering a move to Portand, Oregon at the moment…

    Sounds like you’re about to have some amazing adventures. Let me know if you have any more questions, and enjoy Chile!

    Thanks for your message Christina. Your recent trip looked like a lot of fun. I have always wanted to visit Portland, OR.

    We’ll arrive in Santiago on December 26, so I’ll let you know what we think. The trip is going to be a whirlwind near Christmas time.

  9. The food sounded great and how nice for them to make you something special. Good luck with your move. You are living an exciting life!

    Hi Meg! That was really kind of the cook to make veggie cutlets for us. They are thoughtful friends.

    Thanks for the luck. We are a little daunted by packing in the next couple of days.

  10. Hey Still life
    Loved catching up with you recently, love the snow falling on your blog, will love to hear about those penguins.

    But hope to see you before you go. SC

  11. hey! sounds like a great month. If you want/need any info, ask away. I’ve been here a way long time, and do kind of know my way around.

    A word about hiking the W… I don’t know if you are camping or refugio-ing, but if it’s the former, and the weather is good, you might want to do the trek from the torres side first because the weather often doesn’t hold. It was snowy on New Year’s day up at the torres last year. But I’ve been up there three times and have loved it (and nearly frozen) every time. You’ll have a lovely trip!

    Thanks for your suggestions, Eileen. 🙂

  12. Sounds like a good feast! Torres del Paine is supposed to be beautiful, although I haven’t made it there yet. And the Bellas Artes neighborhood is really fun…not the safest for walking around alone at night, but other than that lots of good culture, food and nightlife. If you’re interested in a city tour that actually shows real Santiago culture and not the sanitized tour bus that takes you to the mall, try (city tours on bike, my boyfriend is a guide but objectively everyone loves the tour). And yes, the views from Mendoza to Stgo are pretty stunning. Enjoy the trip!

    Thanks for the tips, Emily. Your boyfriend’s job sounds awesome. We’ll keep that tour in mind, especially when we first arrive and want to get to know the city!

  13. And then will you go back to Argentina?

    That is our plan right now. Are you thinking of visiting Buenos Aires? 😉

  14. girlunderthere

    Hope you’re doing well in Chile! Can’t wait to see/hear about it.

    Thank you! 🙂 We arrive on December 26.

  15. Kimberly

    hi sweets,
    I was catching up on your posts. What is ‘a mate’ that you had for dessert?


    Mate is yerba mate, the traditional drink in Argentina. It’s usually shared in a group.

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